It's relatively easy to use a Raspberry Pi to approximate the experience of having your own custom cable television channel similar to what folks of a certain age may remember from their youth. In a previous post I went over some of the basic steps to get a Raspberry Pi 4 set up as a "retro box" that automatically plays a curated collection of movies and shows from the 1970s, including period correct public service announcements and commercials. After a couple of weeks of testing - which was essentially just letting the box run to make sure that the flow of the programing actually felt like watching period correct television - I decided that I needed to ramp things up. It wasn't good enough to just have a Raspberry Pi that played old movies and commercials. Any modern computer can do that. This needed to actually have the entire aesthetic of a classic 1970s cable channel. It needed to dress the part.
That's where eBay comes back. Some quick searching and I was able to locate an untested cable box circa early 80's for parts/repair that had a buy now price of only $3.81 (plus $12 for shipping). This box included a front channel display and was roomy enough to house both the Raspberry PI and an Arduino UNO (more on that below). I decided to go with the 80's style box, since the larger encloser would make it much easier to work with, and I had some ideas about utilizing the front channel display screen.
When the box arrive it was immediately obvious that the particular Jerrold 550 Starcom converter had lived a rough life. The was some serious damage to one corner of the plastic face plate due to what I can only attribute as "falling damage" from being dropped on a hard surface, and the unit was covered in old masking tape and 40+ years of grime. I also noticed that the unit's enclosure was secured with rivets, probably since the majority of these units were distributed by local cable companies and they didn't want to make it easy for industrious hackers to open them up to try to figure out how to get free Home Box Office. The first step was to drill out the rivets so I could take the unit apart.
After I parted the case out I spent some time scrubbing the case down with dish detergent and using a liberal amount of Goo Be Gone to get all that sticky tape residue cleaned up. Once everything was clean and dry, I could spend some time attending to the smashed corner of the face plate. I had a couple of options for the repair, but I decided that the easiest (and structurally most secure) fix would be to recreate the corner using Green Stuff two-part epoxy. For folks not familiar with Green Stuff, it essentially is a two-part epoxy that you mix by hand and then mold like a really rigid Play Dough into to place. It is typically used a lot when kit bashing models for games like Warhammer 40K, when you need to sculpt a custom piece, and maybe adhere a particularly tricky portion of a model together. It works well, can be easily sculpted, and takes simple water-based acryllic paint just fine. I eyeballed the amount that would be needed to recreate the missing/damaged corner, mixed it up, and then went to work sculpting the corner as best as I could. Green Stuff sets pretty quickly - typically with 5-10 minutes - so I didn't have the luxury of time here. My goal was good, not great. After the epoxy set I mixed up a fairly good approximation of the color of the faceplate using acrylic paint to blend the repair in as best as I could. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it. From across the room it's not noticeable and the Green Stuff actually made the faceplate much more sturdy that it was previous to the repair.
Once the plastic was repaired I started brainstorming how to use the front channel display. I immediately though about using an Arduino UNO to power a small LED screen, since I'd used that pairing to great effect on a couple of smaller projects. I suppose I could have powered the LED's from the Raspberry Pi, but to be honest it was quicker and easier for me to wire up the display to an extra UNO R3 I had and I was able to repurpose a sketch that I had written for a handheld snake game. The Pi can power the UNO via USB, and if I ever want to change the display it is super easy to do (and doesn't affect the functionality of the Pi). It also gives me to option of adding a module for a remote control if want later down the line. I played around with different text for the display, finally settling on having an asterisk gliding across the display. It looked cool and I'm a sucker for moving LED's (let's just blame that on "Knight Rider"). After some tweaks for placement and a couple of generous blobs of hot glue to hold the screen in place, I had a functioning display that I could easily modify to anything that used a basic character set.
The final stretch was just to drop the Raspberry Pi into the box and get everything secured. I cut and glued some rubber welcome mat materials to the bottom of the case to assist with giving everything a nice, non-conductive floor to mount the pieces on, and mapped out the most efficient layout to screw everything down.
And there it is...a working retro "cable channel" that lives inside a period correct cable box with a customizable LED front panel. Eventually I will add an Arduino remote control module that I will use to change up the front display to a couple of different visual options. I still need to come up with a reasonable plan for cable management that will allow me to plug in a mouse and keyboard into the back. I can remote into the box from another computer to add videos if I want. Overall, I'm pretty stoked on this little project. I'd like to make another one at some point using a Raspberry Pi 3 with composite video so I can easily run the signal to one of the CRT televisions I have. This is the first project I'm done that has utilized both the Raspberry Pi and the Arduino boards and I love the flexibility of having both in a build. Now it's time to watch some TV!
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